Rose
Latin name(s): Rosa damascena, Rosa gallica, Rosa centifolia
Geography: Africa, Mediterranean, Western Asia
Benefits: Anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, toning
Modern categorisation: Botanical extract, antioxidant
From what was once between 7 and 15 wild species, the Rosa genus now accommodates more than 280 species scattered across the Northern Hemisphere. Our love of their sweet, distinctive scent has a long history of thousands of years of cultivation and hybridisation for a wide variety of uses. Some of the earliest documentation of roses originates in the Caucasus region, during king Sargon I's expansion of the Akkadian kingdom (2684–2630 BCE). The king made particular note of these unique blooms, and had their shrubs transported back to Mesopotamia.
Over time, these were exported to other regions across Africa, Europe, and Asia. Linear B tablets from the Mycenaean palace of Pylos in the Greek Peloponnese (1600–1500 BCE) detail that these flowers were favoured by perfumers of the royal court.
Image: Roses depicted in a bird fresco from the Mycenaean palace of Knossos (1600–1500 BCE). By Olaf Tausch, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0.
Since then, roses became deeply associated with the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite, and served as highly coveted cure-alls. Rose infusions and oils known as “rhodinon” were extensively used by notable ancient Roman and Greek physicians Hippocrates, Galen, and Dioscorides to treat stomach and gynaecological ailments. Rose garlands were even worn at banquets to—supposedly—prevent hangover.
These preparations also served as highly valuable cosmetics and perfumes in Egypt and the Mediterranean. According to Ovid, rose infusions cleansed the face, and the vibrant petals were used as blush for the cheeks.
Modern analysis of genetic markers from the prestigious Damask Rose (Rosa damascena) suggest that this species was bred from Rosa phoenicia and the apothecary rose (Rosa gallica) in Anatolia. Both the Damask and apothecary rose varieties were popular in ancient and medieval European cultures, whilst Western Asia primarily grew the Damask rose.
The olfactory and visual magnificence of roses also greatly influenced Islamic medicine and aesthetics. The aforementioned long history of cultivation in Western Asia caused geometric and stylised roses became integrated in the standard collection of Islamic artistic motifs. During the Medieval period, diverse cultivars of roses migrated with Islamic peoples into manicured gardens throughout Spain and the Mediterranean. It is from this movement that the beautiful Rose Valley oasis in the Dades Valley, Morocco, began to grow Damask roses.
In Medieval Europe, the rose became inextricably connected to courtly love, chivalry, and desire. The Romance of the Rose, an Old French poem dated between 1225 and 1270 CE, describes a young man's allegorical dream of pursuing a young woman who takes the form of a rose in a walled garden. The man must navigate personifications such as Impropriety, Sadness, and Envy to "pluck" the rose.
In our modern day, it is estimated that there are over 30,000 cultivars of roses, each with their own rich history. When diluted, rose oils and absolutes are powerful additions to skincare formulations. These oils are rich with compounds such as geraniol which elevate their broad-spectrum antibacterial activity. Damask rose has also been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation comparatively to Vitamin E, and is thus a potent agent against free radical damage. Flavonoids and terpenes also support the soothing quality of rose oils.
Growing research in plant stem cell therapy has demonstrated that Rosa damascena stem cell extracts significantly reduce inflammation, and improve the appearance of scars and skin tissue quality overall.
There is really so much to the history of roses in many cultures globally and it is impossible to summarise everything here. If you have a particular interest in a period or culture from the past, we highly recommend exploring how the rose fit into that story.
Interested in reading more?
Corrente, G. 2022. “The “Persistence” of an Ancient Perfume: The Rose of Paestum.” In A. Grand-Clément and C. Ribeyrol (eds.), The Smell and Senses of Antiquity in the Modern Imagination. Bloomsbury Academic: London.
Majewska, L., Kondraciuk, A., Dorosz, K., & Budzyńska, A. 2025. "Application of Standardized Rosa damascena Stem Cell-Derived Exosomes in Dermatological Wound Healing and Scar Management: A Retrospective Case-Series Study with Long-Term Outcome Assessment." Pharmaceutics 17(7), 910.
Malahi, S.E., Ganoudi, M., Hassani, L.M.I. 2025. "Beyond Beauty: A Look at the Damask Rose's Origin, History and Geographical Spread." International Journal of Agriculture and Environmental Research 11, 75–95.
Mulders, E. 2023. "Plants in Medieval Literature A Thorny Rose Bush and Other Greenery: Love, Lust and Suffering in the Romance of the Rose." In C.A. Chavannes-Manzel and L. IJpelaar, The Green Middle Ages:The Depiction and Use of Plants in the Western World 600-1600. Routledge: London and New York, 228–244.
Olson, K. 2009. "Cosmetics in Roman Antiquity: Substance, Remedy, Poison." The Classical World 102, 291–310.
Rivera, D., Navarro, J., Camarero, I., Valera, J., Rivera-Obón, D.-J., Obón, C. 2026. "Horticultural Systems and Species Diversity of Roses in Classical Antiquity: Integrating Archaeological, Iconographic, and Literary Evidence from Ancient Greece and Rome." Horticulturae 12, 118.
Totelin, L. 2015. “Smell as sign and cure in ancient medicine.” In M. Bradley (ed.), Smell and the Ancient Senses. Routledge: London & New York, 17–29.
Totelin, L. 2024. “A thorn in the flesh: roses, rose gardens, and health in Greek and Roman antiquity.” Studies in the History of Gardens & Designed Landscapes 44, 105–117.